Whiskey Peak has a great concentration of one- to two-pitch routes besides the classic Frogland, Triassic Sands, and "Ixtalan". They're in the shade most of the day and are ideal for short cragging days. We climbed a few of those lines during our stay at Red Rocks in the spring of 2004.
Just left of the first pitch of "Frogland" is a great 5.10+ face pitch: "Rain Dance". It has delicate climbing along thin flakes (a right facing one first, then a left facing one) with few, but very well placed bolts. You'll need a small rack to complement the bolts. Really fun climbing! Belay from the trees on the ledge as for Frogland, then rap down with two ropes from the bolted anchor at the left edge of the ledge.
Closer to Triassic Sands but left of "Ixtalan" is "The Misunderstanding" (5.9), a good two-pitch crack climb. The first pitch (5.9) follows a crack with good stemming and laybacking, then traverses left under a roof to a ledge with a bolted anchor. The traverse is a little tricky but very well protected. The second pitch (also 5.9) is a sustained offwidth. It is short (about 80 ft) but is burly enough that you'll probably be happy to reach the anchor (bring at least a couple of #3 Camalots). One double-rope rap brings you down.
Just left of "Triassic Sands" is a fun face climb, "Sand Felipe" (5.10a). This is really a miniature, single-pitch version of The Prince of Darkness. The last time we climbed it, it was sparsely bolted (9 bolts on a 160' pitch) and had ground-fall potential while clipping the second bolt right at the crux. Someone has fixed that problem (good) but then went totally crazy on the rest of the climb by turning it into a bolt ladder! There are now sixteen bolts to a lower anchor, and as many as 21 bolts to the original anchor a few meters higher! Anyway, it's still a good climb. Lucie led it as practice for "The Prince of Darkness". Great Red Rocks edging but she almost got tired of clipping the bolts, having to stop every two moves.
Just right of "Triassic Sands" is a great two pitch climb, "Wholesome Fullback" (5.10a). The first pitch follows a thin finger crack on beautiful dark chocolate-colored rock. It's a long pitch with two crux sections: the finger crack and a overhang higher up. The second pitch is a chimney (5.8).
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Cragging at Whiskey Peak, Red Rocks
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| Eric on "Rain Dance", a great 5.10+ face. |
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| Placing natural pro between bolts. |
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| Lucie leading the 1st pitch of "The Misunderstanding" (5.9). |
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| Stemming below the intimidating roof. |
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| Traversing left to the belay anchors. |
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| Eric on the 2nd pitch of "The Misunderstanding", a burly off-width. |
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| Higher on that pitch. |
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| Lucie on "Sand Felipe" (5.10a), a miniature version of Prince of Darkness. Climbers above are rapping off Triassic Sands. |
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| "Wholesome Fullback" is a great two-pitch climb just right of Triassic Sands. |
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| Lucie starting the first pitch, a great 10a thin finger crack. |
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| Higher on the first pitch. |
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| Approaching the second crux on the first pitch. |
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| Lucie on the second pitch (5.8) |