We're
up early as we are expecting other parties to queue up for this classic route.
We leave the bus at 6:15AM, and start hiking around 6:45AM. There are already
two cars at the pullout, and we can see one party finishing the second pitch
of the Regular Route! Hope the other team is on that route too…
It's a
short and pleasant hike on a very good trail to the base of our route. Nobody
there! There's a good size snow cone at the base of the route, but fortunately,
a good ledge can be reached, just above the top of the snow. We gear up quickly
and move to the ledge to setup a belay.
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Fairview
Dome (seen from the top of Mariolumne Dome).
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Lucky
Streaks follows an obvious line of steep cracks and corners on
the right side of the west face.
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Eric
starting the easy ramp of pitch 1 (5.9).
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Higher
on the ramp.
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About
to traverse right ot join the other flake system.
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The route
couldn't be any more obvious: it follows a nearly plumb line of corners and
cracks all the way from base to top of the right hand side of the west face
of Fairview Dome. The first pitch starts up an easy ramp (5.6) to where it
peters out and one has to make a thin 5.9 move to reach another flake system.
Note that this move could be intimidating if you're not comfortable at 5.9;
there is good pro, but it is well below your right foot when making the move
(quite safe though). This leads to a good belay ledge.
Pitch
2 starts easily, then gets into a clean, steep finger crack (5.10a) for a
few moves to an awkward belay at the right edge of a ledge (no anchor further
left).
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Lucie
following pitch 1.
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Getting
to the good ledge.
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Great
views in the early morning light.
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Starting
pitch 2 (5.10a).
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Tackling
the steep finger crack.
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The third
pitch is the crux, and starts with a very tricky 5.10c/d move up a thin finger
crack (balancy, technical move). The rest of the pitch is quite sustained,
with another 10b crux, then a 10a ramp/undercling/lieback thing. Very good
pitch, quite continuous. Good pro, but you have to work it a bit because of
the large crystals in the rock.
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Following
pitch 2.
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Lucie
approaching the belay.
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Eric
starting the crux pitch (5.10d).
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Going
up the 10a ramp.
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Higher
on pitch 3.
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Pitch
4 is easy and short, up a low angle dihedral with plenty of fun knobs (crystals).
About 5.8+, and not at all sustained, contrary to indications in Supertopo.
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Lucie
following the left angling ramp of pitch 3.
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Almost
there.
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More
views.
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The
lower angle, grainy dihedral of pitch 4 (5.8+).
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Higher
on the same pitch.
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The next
pitch (pitch 5) starts with a long traverse to the left under an overlap,
and into another left-facing corner. The traverse is initially quite easy
(5.7/5.8). The pro is OK, but not super-obvious. The last third of the traverse
gets very thin (thin feet and not-so positive underclings), and has little
pro (I didn't bother with any, but I think you could get at least one piece).
The last moves are tricky 5.9. The best approach I found was to step far left
and down with my left foot to a small edge, then friction/micro-edge up from
there into the corner. The corner itself is sustained 5.9 with a finger crack.
Quite fun, and a bit brainy. Great anchor and small slopy stances for the
belay, a few feet below where the variation rejoins the corner from the right
(this is about 160ft, much longer than suggested in Supertopo).
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Following
pitch 4.
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Starting
pitch 5 (5.9). A tricky pitch.
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Eric
on the long leftward traverse into another corner.
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Getting
into the corner is the crux of the pitch.
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Looking
down at Lucie following the traverse.
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The last
pitch (pitch 6) is a long, sustained 5.8 flare (fun).
I was
carrying the rack suggested in Supertopo and it is quite a bit more than necessary.
I had a #3 and a #4 Camalot. I never used the #4, although I probably could
have in the last pitch (I ran it out at the end instead, as the flared crack
is quite secure). All belays offer really interesting and bomber gear anchors.
At least half of the belays are hanging/semi-hanging. The climbing is quite
different from what we've been doing the last many days: the grain here is
large and rounded, offering less secure friction, but the large knobby crystals
add face holds around the cracks.
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Getting
into the dihedral after turning the overlap.
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The
last moves before reaching the belay.
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Eric
starting the last pitch, a long 5.8 flare.
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Higher
on the same pitch.
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And
we're there!
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We were
in the shade until the last few meters of the last pitch (p6) and descended
in full sun (South-facing). The route was in full sun by the time we got back
to the base (1:20PM). Perfect timing. The descent is super friendly: a quick
scramble down class 2 or 3 slabs, then a short walk around the base of the
dome will lead you back to your packs! Five stars for user-friendliness and
climbing quality. A great route!
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Summit
shot.
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Descending
the class 2/3 slabs on the back side of the dome (South face).
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Looking
up the South face descent route.
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