After
warming up on the 1st pitch of "Human Fright" (5.10a), a good route right
at the top of the approach path on the West Face, we climb "El Camino Real".
The third pitch is classic and makes it along with Super
Pooper, as one of the best 10a at Tahquitz.
The first
pitch starts with a scary section of 5.9 slab off the ground (shitty pro:
bad RP's, and a blue alien with only 2 of 4 cams touching). The
second pitch starts straight up an arete, then traverses left on somewhat
runout slab to a good size ledge with a large tree.
These two rope lengths are nothing special. What you came for is next.
 |
|
Starting
pitch 1 (5.9), with questionable pro.
|
|
 |
|
The
second pitch follows a short and slightly runout slab (5.9).
|
|
 |
|
Lucie
following pitch 2.
|
|
 |
|
A
squirrel enjoying the afternoon sun, high on the cliff.
|
|
 |
|
Eric
starting the classic 3rd pitch (5.10a).
|
|
Really
classic 3rd pitch: clean layback on a perfect finger crack in a clean corner.
The crux comes near the end, where the fingerlocks get thin. Moving decisively
through this section is key.
 |
|
Higher
on pitch 2.
|
|
 |
|
Lucie
following the striking layback corner.
|
|
 |
|
Posing
for the camera.
|
|
 |
|
Looking
back at the amazing corner.
|
|
 |
|
Eric
leading pitch 4 (5.8).
|
|
Above
this, we go basically straight up: I start (p4) with a 5.8 crack that zigzags
above the belay, into a blocky corner, through loose blocks, and to a belay
on a huge block below a striking low-angle dihedral. The fifth pitch is straight
up the dihedral (5.7 or so) to a huge slopy ledge very close to the ridge.
We unrope
here, and scramble up the ridge to the standard friction descent.
 |
|
The
last pitch follows a large orange corner (5.7?).
|
|
 |
|
Relaxing
at the top of the route.
|
|
 |
|
On
the descent trail.
|
|
|
|
Note:
An interesting five-star combination might be to climb the first pitch of
Fingertrip to the tree, then traverse right to the base of the stunning dihedral
of El Camino's thrid pitch.
