Eric & Lucie's Bus Trip: Pre-Trip Climbing Resume

Our Climbing Resume

This is partial list of some of the more notable (to us), higher quality, or longer climbs we have done.

Partial list of the climbs we have done before embarking on this trip. We climb almost exclusively as a team. Unless indicated otherwise, all the following climbs were done by both of us.

1995:

Our first climbing experiences ever: the introductory class with the Los Alamos Mountaineers (April).

First traditional lead: Easy Ridge (5.6, 14p), Brazos Cliff, NM (July).

The Matron, East Ridge (5.5), Flatirons, Boulder, CO.

Tunnel Vision (5.7, 6p), Dark Shadows (5.8-, 4p), Frogland (5.8, 7p), Red Rocks, NV.

What's my Line (5.6-A0, 3p), Cochise Stronghold, AZ.

1996:

Introduction to ice climbing in Ouray (January).
Ellingwood Arete (5.7, III), Crestone Needle, CO (July); our first of the crowded 50 Classics!
Rewritten (5.8, 6p), The Great Zot (5.8+, 4p), Bastille Crack (5.8, 5p), Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO.
East of Easy (5.7, 14p), Cat Burglar (5.8, 8p), Resignation Ridge (5.8, 10p), Brazos Cliff, NM.
East Ridge of Wolf's Head, (5.6, II), South Buttress of Pingora (5.8, 3p, II), North-East face of Pingora (5.8, 11p, IV), Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range, WY.
South Six Shooter (5.7, 2p) Indian Creek, UT.

1997:

Black Orpheus (5.9+, 10p), Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+, 9p), Triassic Sands (5.10, 6p), Sour Mash (5.10-, 6p), Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10-, 7p), Red Rocks, NV.
The Green Spur (5.9, 5p), West Buttress of the Bastille (5.9, 4p), Green Slab Direct (5.9, 4p), Yellow Spur (5.9, 7p), Anthill Direct (5.9s, 6p), Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO.
Our first spring snow gully: Red Gully, Crestone Peak, CO.
Northcutt-Carter (5.7, III, this route has since disappeared in a major rock slide), Hallett Peak, The Petit Grepon (5.7, 8p, South Face), Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
North Face of Fairview Dome (5.9, IV), West Pillar of Eichorn Pinnacle (5.10b, III), Tuolumne Meadows, CA.
South-East face of Clyde Minaret (5.8, IV), Fishook Arete of Mt Russell (5.9, III), East Face of Mt Whitney (5.6, III), Eastern Sierra, CA.
Royal Arches (5.9, III), Yosemite Valley, CA.
Central Rib Direct (5.8, ~10p), Brazos Cliff, NM.
First Gully (WI4, 800ft), Whore House Hose (WI4-5, 500ft), Eureka Valley, Silverton, CO.

1998:

Horsetail Falls (WI4, 500ft), Ouray, CO.
Treasure Falls (WI4-5, 130ft), Wolf Creek Pass, CO.
Bridalveil Falls (WI5, 400ft), Ames Ice Hose (WI5, 600ft), around Telluride, CO.
East Buttress of Middle Cathedral (5.10c, IV), Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9, 5p), Nutcracker (5.8, 5p), Yosemite Valley, CA.
South-West Ridge of the Needle (5.8, 15p), Sandia Mountain, Albuquerque, NM.
George's Tree (5.9, 4p), Loose Ends (5.9, 4p), Fantasy Ridge (5.9, 4p), Back Flip (5.9, 3p), Mainliner (5.9, 6p), Femp (5.9, 4p), Lumpy Ridge, CO.
Direct Exum Ridge (5.7, IV, combined with Upper Exum), Direct South Buttress of Mt Moran (5.9, A1, IV), North Ridge of Grand Teton (5.7, IV), Grand Teton National park, WY.
South Prow of Kit Carson (5.8, ~8p), Crestone Range, CO.
Supercrack (5.10), Incredible Handcrack (5.10), The Wave (5.10+), and others, Indian Creek, UT.
Kor-Ingalls (5.9, 4p), Castleton Tower, Castle Valley, UT.
Crabby Appleton (5.9+, 5p), The Nightcrawler (5.10, 4p), Prince of Darkness (5.10c, 6p), Red Rocks, NV.
Stairway to Heaven (WI4, 900ft), Eureka Valley, Silverton, CO.

1999:

The Ribbon (WI4, 600ft), Skylight area, Ouray, CO.
Gold Rush (WI4+, 500ft), Eureka Valley, Silverton, CO.
Ames Ice Hose (WI5, 600ft), around Telluride, CO.
Escape Artist (5.9+, 9p), Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO.
Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p), J-Crack (5.9, 5p), Endless Crack (5.9, 5p), Fat City Crack (5.10b, 4p), Romulan Territory (5.10b, 4p), Progression (5.10, 7p), Orange Julius (5.10b, 6p), Lumpy Ridge, CO.
Epinephrine (5.9, 18p), Eagle Dance (5.10-A0, 9p), Cat in the Hat (5.6+, 5p), The Great Red Book (5.8, 2p), Yellow Brick Wall (5.10, 5p), The Gobbler (5.10-, 2p), Red Rocks, NV.
Flying Buttress of Mt Meeker (5.9, 6p), Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
South Face of Charlotte Dome (5.7, 11p), Red Dihedral of Incredible Hulk (5.10, 11p), Third Pillar of Dana (5.10, 7p), Eastern Sierra, CA.
Traveler's Buttress (5.9, 4p), Lovers Leap, CA.
Casual Route (5.10a, 8p), the Diamond, Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
Warpaint (5.10c, 5p), Warpath (5.9+, 4p), Cochise Stronghold, AZ.
Cotopaxi (19,347 ft - Lucie and her sister turned back 500 ft below summit, Eric stayed at the hut), Chimborazo (20,701 ft - summited), Ecuador.

2000:

Climbed the classic ice routes of SW Colorado again: Bridalveil Falls (WI5, 400ft), Ames Ice Hose (WI5, 600ft), Stairway to Heaven (WI4, 900ft), CO.
Arribas Amoebas (5.10, 6p), The Wasteland (5.8, 7p), Dem Bones (5.10, 6p), Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+, 9p), Cochise Stronghold, AZ.
Rigid Designator (WI4+, 130 ft), The Thang (WI5-M5), Vail, CO.
No Name Crack (5.10b), Bad Rad Dual Reality Crack (5.10d), and others, Indian Creek, UT.
Ruper (5.8, 6p), Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a, 3p), Grandmother's Challenge (5.10c, 2p), Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO.
Leasure Climb (5.9-, 6p), Comic Relief (5.10-, 9p), Maiden Voyage (5.9+, 6p), Black Canyon of the Gunnison, CO.
La Demande (5.10'ish, ~10p), Gorges du Verdon, France.
Spigolo Giallo (5.10, ~9 pitches, on Tre Cime de Lavaredo III), East Face of Catinaccio (Steger Route, 5.9, 18p), Dolomites, Italy.
North Ridge (5.6, 8p) and Sycke's Sickle (5.9, 7p) on the Spearhead, North-East Ridge of Sharkstooth (5.6, 6p), Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
Mountain Momma (5.10c, 7p), The Great Escape (5.10d, ~5p), Sandia Mountains, Albuquerque, NM.
Pervertical Sanctuary (5.10d/11a, 6p), the Diamond, Longs Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
Coatimundi Corner (5.9, 5p), Reunion (5.10-, 4p), Slammer Jam (5.10, 5p), and others, Granite Mountain, Prescott, AZ.
Jah Man (5.10c, 5p), North Chimney of Castleton Tower (5.9, 4p), Sister Superior, Castle Valley, UT.

2001:

That year was marked by a failed trip to Peru, where Eric broke his clavicle. This put a serious damper on any climbing over the next several months. Several weeks before the Peru trip were also absorbed by training for it on Colorado Fourteeners.

Ames Ice Hose (WI5+, 5.9, 600ft), this time in really thin conditions, and several other classic ice climbs in South-Western CO (already listed above).
Stairway to Heaven (WI5-6, 5p), The Fang (WI5-6, 2p), Provo Canyon, UT.
Dreamweaver (AI3, M2+, III), Mt. Meeker, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
The Grand Giraffe (5.10a), and others, Eldorado Canyon, Boulder, CO.
Pequeno Alpamayo (17,700 ft), La Derecha (WI3, ~ 18,000 ft) in the Condoriri valley, and the highest peak in the country, Sajama (21,463 ft), Bolivia (Lucie only).

2002:

Not that much climbing. Eric was still healing his shoulder a large part of this year (not to mention breaking it again while leading rock too soon...). Our alpine trips suffered bad karma/weather (Mt Alice, Diamond). The last few months of the year, we spent most every weekend preparing for this bus trip.

Osiris (5.7, 4p), Kor's Flake (5.7+, 6p), Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 4p), Pear Buttress (5.8+, 5p), The Guillotine (5.10b, 6p), Lumpy Ridge, CO.
Fingertrip (5.7), Open Book (5.9), Whodunit (5.9), El Camino Real (5.10), Superpooper (5.10), and others Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA.
Rising Spirits (5.10+, 6p, Hermit Spire), Magic Dragon (5.8, 12p, Magician), Thin Ice (5.10b, 3p, Sorcerer), Airy Interlude (5.10, 3p, Witch), Igor Unchained (5.9, 3p, Witch), Love Potion #9 (5.10, 3p, Sorcerer Apprentice), the Needles, CA.
Durrance (5.8, 6p), El Matador (5.10d, first 2p), Belle-Fourche Buttress (5.10b, 4p), Walt Bailey Memorial (5.9), Soler (5.9, 2p), New Wave and Assembly Line (5.10a and 5.9), Devils Tower, WY.

2003-2004:

On the road... click here for a list of the climbs we did during our first bus trip

2005:

Back at work in March 2005. Lucie injured her hamstring top-roping two months after we got back from the 2003-2004 bus trip. She was out for the entire spring/summer season. Needless to say, we did not do much climbing except for a few trips to crags close to home: Turkey Rocks, Lumpy Ridge, Jack's Canyon, Paradise Forks, Hueco Tanks and Indian Creek in the fall. Also climbed in the Sandia Mountains, near Albuquerque, NM: The Second Coming (5.9 variation, 4p) and Wildflower (10a).

2006:

Ames Ice Hose (WI5, 600ft), (in fat conditions this time) and Bridalveil Falls (WI6, 400ft) near Telluride, CO, Treasure Falls (WI4-5, 130ft), Wolf Creek Pass, CO.
The Last Gentleman (WI 5, IV) and Twenty Below Zero Gully (WI4+, III) , Lake Willoughby, VT, Dracula (WI 4+, 1p), Crawford Notch, NH.
Peacemaker (5.10a, III) and Too Tough to Die (5.10b, II) on Sheepshead, and a few recently bolted lines on Middle Sister, Dragoon Mountains, AZ.
Climbed again a few of our favorite climbs at Lumpy Ridge: Hand over Hand (5.8, 3p), Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 4p), Loose Ends (5.9, 4p), J Crack (5.9, 4p), Backflip (5.9, 3p), Climb of the Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p), Romulan Territory (5.10b, 4p), Fat City (5.10b, 4p, Cheap Date finish), Thindependence and Visual Aids (5.10c and 5.10a, best link-up on the Book), Lumpy Ridge, CO.
Mountain Momma (5.10c, 7p), Sandia Mountains, Albuquerque, NM.
The Barb (5.10b, III) and East Prow (5.9, III) on Spearhead, and Directissima (10b, III) on Chasm View Wall, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
Sideline (5.9+, 4p, Elephant's Perch), The Mountaineer's Route (5.9, 8p, Elephant's Perch), Astro Elephant (5.10b, 11p, Elephant's Perch), Sunrise Book (5.10 Ao, 5p, Elephant's Perch), Beckey Direct (5.11b, 10p, Elephant's Perch) and Open Book (5.8, 6p, Finger of Fate), the Sawtooths, ID.