After
climbing Ngauruhoe and Tongariro,
it's obvious we cannot leave without climbing the highest volcano of the North
Island: Mt Ruapehu. Ruapehu is a large volcano with many summits, the highest
of which is Tahurangi (2,797m); that's the objective.
We stop
by the visitor center to consult the guidebooks about the route. We also talk
to the rangers who half-try to dissuade us from going up. Ruapehu erupted
just two weeks ago (a steam explosion that triggered large mud slides). One
climber was very seriously injured when a flying missile of a rock blasted
right through the door of a small hut they had taken refuge in during the
eruption. Tragically, his leg had to be amputated as a result. The mountain
is still on alert, with the crater lake hotter and more active than usual.
The risk seems manageable though, as we will be in the more serious danger
zone for only a hour or two, as we near the summit. Not the time to go on
an extended exploration of the crater area though...
After
a quick lunch at a café across from the visitor center, we leave Whakapa Village
for Oruehene to get in position for climbing the mountain. Unfortunately,
five minutes down the road, we hear some strange sounds... we stop bny the
side of the road and get out of the van to take a look. We've just blown a
rear tire. The poor thing is shredded to pieces (it is one of two wheels on
that side of the rear axle). We pull off on a nearby parking lot to put on
the spare. It takes us some time to figure out how to get the damn thing off
for underneath the camper. After about an hour, we're finally on our way…
better not blow another one…
Quick
stop in Oruehene to buy some groceries at New World and prepare the packs
for the next day. We then drive up the road to the Turoa ski area to take
a look at our planned route. We end up parking right by the ski area buildings
for the night (the ski hill is closed for the season).
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Mt
Ruapehu -the highest volcano in the North Island- seen from the
Mangatepopo trailhead.
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Camping
at Turoa ski area.
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Map
of Turoa ski area. Tahurangi (2,797m) is the highest summit of
Mt Ruapehu.
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Tahurangi
and the Skyline Ridge seen from Oruehene.
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Sunrise
at the Turoa ski area with Taranaki
in the background.
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Our chosen
route, the "Skyline Ridge" is a striking straight shot from the Turoa ski
area to Tahurangi, Ruapehu's highest summit. We leave the camper at sunrise.
The first half of the route is sort of boring and unappealing, as it weaves
its way up the ski lifts, mostly through rocks and dirt, ending on gentle
snow slopes to the top of the highest chair lift. There, we take a break in
one of the ski-lift huts. We then make it onto the ridge proper, and the start
of the real climbing. The ridge is exposed and very icy. We don't have a second
tool and we almost regret it... We are wearing hanesses just in case, but
the rope stays in the pack to the top. It's really windy and cold. The views
of Girdlestone (a craggy sub-peak) and the plains are magnificient.
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The
"Skyline Ridge" route ascends snow slopes above the
ski area before gaining the ridge proper.
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Pretty
apline flowers.
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Ascending
the gentle snow slopes of the ski area.
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Taking
a break inside one of the ski-lift huts.
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On
the ridge proper.
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Just below
the summit, the angle eases and we soon stand on Tahurangi with great views
of the summit crater. Party time! We shoot the obligatory summit pics and
have a snack. It's our first "technical" mountain in NZ and we're
just happy to be there. We don't stay too long though as it is incredibly
windy.
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High
on the ridge, looking back toward Girdlestone.
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The
upper part of the ridge is steep and icy.
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Climbing
up the steep and exposed ridge with Girdlestone in the background.
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The
final mellow slope, just below the summit.
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Summit
shot.
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We pass
another couple just below the gentle snow slope leading to the summit. They
live in New Plymouth and climb Taranaki a lot. We ask them about the conditions
on "The Mountain" (as it is often called) since it is our next objective.
They say that the conditions are really good right now. We also ask them about
climbing in the Southern Alps; they say they only climbed the NW Ridge of
Mt Aspiring and that they used a guide. Weird! Anyway, the funny thing is
that we would meet one of them again on Taranaki a week later!
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Looking
down at the crater from the summit. Obvious signs of recent activity.
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Going
back down the gentle slope to regain the ridge proper .
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Descending
the steep bit.
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Party
of four on their way up...
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We start
descending the steep ridge. It's of course much trickier going down... but
we eventually make it back down to the ski area, passing a party of four on
their way up. From there, it's a cruise back to the camper.
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...approaching
the ski area.
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Back
at the camper.
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