The west
face of the Witch is home to several good climbs and at least two mega-classics:
"Igor Unchained" (3p, 5.9, and the most popular route in the Needles)
and "Airy Interlude" (4p, 5.10a). We'd climbed them in the past,
but they are so good that twice is probably not even enough...
The approach
from the trailhead to the base of the routes takes about 80 minutes. Igor
Unchained and Airy Interlude stay in the shade all morning.
The formation
is located right across the gully from the east face of the Sorcerer. It is
worthwhile to bring your packs to the base of the route if you're planning
to climb on the Sorcerer as well. Otherwise, it's better to leave them at
the col (the descent takes you back to this point). It is a 5-minute hike
from the col to the base of the face.
The descent
involves a short (80ft) rap to a blocky ledge, then some (4th or low-fifth
class?) downclimbing to easier terrain in a small gully. This leads back down
to the Witch/Sorcerer col.
Igor
Unchained (5.9, 3p):
"Igor
Unchained", is THE striking classic crack line on the face. All three
pitches are 5.9, long, sustained, and terrific. The first pitch is pretty
physical; left foot on the slab, right foot in the corner/crack, and either
jamming or sidepulling the crack. Same moves for 100' or so. The crack gets
wide in places.
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Taking
a break on the approach, near the stairs to the fire lookout.
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"Igor"
follows the striking crack system in the middle of the photo.
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Lucie
starting the first pitch (5.9).
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Pretty
physical: same moves for 100' feet or so.
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Approaching
the belay stance just below the roof.
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The start of the second
pitch may be the crux of the route, with moves over a deep overlap (or small
roof), using the very wide crack for purchase (4"). Tricky, especially for
smaller hands! The rest of the pitch is no gimme either. Lucie belays me up
from a large ledge a few feet below the steep headwall. I move the belay a
few feet up, to the base of the steep wall, in preparation for the very long
third pitch (which can also be split into two).
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Eric
following the first pitch.
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The
start of the second pitch is probably the crux of the route if
you have small hands.
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Higher
on pitch 2.
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Following
pitch 2.
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Starting
the gorgeous 3rd pitch.
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The final
pitch is simply gorgeous, starting with very steep, intimidating moves on
good holds, then continuing with steep fingers and hand jamming up the yellow
rock. The second half of the pitch is more delicate, with smaller holds and
balancy moves. If you start from just below the steep headwall, you can just
make it to the final bolted anchor below the rounded summit with a 60m rope.
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Higher
on pitch 3. Look at that awesome granite!
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A
60m rope will get you to a bolted anchor at the end of the route.
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Eric
getting close to the belay on pitch 3.
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Two
climbers on the short rap that begins the descent.
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Downclimbing
back to the Witch/Sorcerer col, with the Sorcerer in the background.
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Airy
Interlude (5.10a, 4p):
"Airy
Interlude" follows a right-facing corner and the obvious diagonal crack
across the gorgeous yellow-green face to join Igor's central crack half way
up. The first pitch is easy: up a low angle crack with only a couple of 5.9
moves. Instead of belaying part way up this crack as is customary, I decide
to combine pitches 1 and 2 and pull a superlong pitch all the way to the base
of the dihedral of p3. Even with 60m ropes, this is too long, and Lucie is
forced to climb up and through the crux (maybe 10m off the ground) before
I reach the ledge. I set up a quick anchor and get her on belay. Two other
parties are now at the base of the super-popular "Igor Unchained". No time
to loose since we'll connect with that route at the end of p3.
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The
classic traverse of "Airy Interlude" can be seen in
the center of the pic.
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The
first pitch is easy, mostly 5.8 or easier, with a couple of 5.9
moves.
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Starting
the signature pitch (5.10a).
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On
the traverse.
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Lucie
following the pitch.
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The third
pitch starts with a very steep corner with a sharp crack (small hands, 5.9).
Then the traverse starts, following an obvious diagonal crack (small hands,
green Camalots), and occasionally thin feet. Exciting 5.9. At one point, you
reach a black inclusion that makes a perfect foothold, just where the crack
thins to finger size and kinks up. This is the crux. I just deleted my description
of these moves... figuring them out is half the fun! A few tricky sidepull
moves above this (balancy) before things mellow out some. A few more feet
of climbing with much better footholds under a small roof, and you reach the
finger cracks of the third pitch of Igor. Up the steep section past the right
side of the roof, and I set up a semi-hanging belay on a small stance. Lucie
follows without much trouble, although the crux move proves a bit reachy for
her.
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Tackling
the hand traverse.
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Gaining
the semi-hanging belay.
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The
last pitch (5.9) joins "Igor".
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Lucie
following the last pitch.
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Looking
back at the fire lookout and the Charlatan from the summit.
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The rest
of the route follows the last pitch of "Igor" to the bolted anchor just below
the summit.
