The Sorcerer
is an impressive piece of rock and has at least three amazing lines on its
East face. "Thin Ice" (5.10b, 3p) - the easiest line on the face
- follows the striking steep crack system right in the middle of the face.
Two other gorgeous lines are "Atlantis" (5.11+,3p) , which follows
discontinuous flakes and crack systems just right of "Thin Ice",
and "Don Juan" (5.11a, 4p) - reputedly harder than Atlantis because
more sustained - starts with the first pitch of "Thin Ice" and traverses
left into an other crack/dihedral system
The approach
from the trailhead to the base of the routes takes about 80 minutes. The Sorcerer
gets morning sun. It is in the shade by about 1:30PM in mid-june.
The descent
involves two double-rope raps from bolted anchors down the right (north) side
of the east face, which deposit you in the 3rd class gully between the Sorcerer
and the Charlatan. A short scramble and you're back at your packs.
Thin
Ice (5.10b, 3p):
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Thin
Ice follows the obvious steep crack in the middle of the face.
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Climber
starting the first pitch.
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Eric
starting the first pitch (10b).
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Higher
on the incredible crack.
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Lucie
following pitch 1, which eventually traverses into the right crack
using the obvious flake.
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After
climbing "Airy Interlude", we head back down the gully to the base
of the route and our packs. We move to a comfy ledge in the shade. Lunch time.
When we're done with lunch, the east face of the Sorcerer has come into shade.
We quickly move to the base of that route, expecting other candidates for
the striking line. Sure enough, as we are roping up, another party arrives.
They'll be waiting for the same route. The first pitch of Thin Ice is simply
amazing. Super-steep, positive finger locks, first up a shallow corner, then
straight up the wall. Near the end of this section, the crack becomes offset
and too small for fingers. This is the crux (sandbag 5.10b). Two or three
thin moves (I bearhugged up the face to the right, sidepulling the crack on
the left, and rounded flakes on the right). Tricky. A bit higher, you reach
a huge flake which affords an easy traverse into the crack system to the right.
Some more steep hand-jamming finally leads to a bolted belay on a tiny stance.
Tough pitch; very physical. We're not used to this type of climbing anymore
(Tahquitz climbs are lower-angle), and both get a bit worked.
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Pulling
the last move before the belay.
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Watching
the other party on pitch 2 once we're back at the base.
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Close
up photo of the other pair.
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Pitch
2 tackles a burly flared chimney (10a).
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Eric
at a rest stance above the initial crux section.
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The next
pitch is rated 10a, but is arguably harder than the first. The first few moves
in particular are very awkward: up a tight flare chimney with a small finger
crack deep into it. After a few moves, I decide to lieback the sharp arete…
bad idea. Things get pretty committing very quickly, and right above the belay.
Scary move back around the arete to get a foot on a block inclusion... and
a piece in! Ouch! The rest of the pitch involves much grunting up the long
flare. Quite a workout. I belay some distance below a tree, at a small ledge
(actually a detached flake, with flowers growing behind it).
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A
party on pitch 3 (5.8)...
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...which
continues up the now lower angle wide flare.
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Views
of the Charlatan from the summit.
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Rapping
into a 3rd class gully.
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The last
pitch is short and much easier (5.8ish), to the large ledge and a huge tree
for anchor.
Two 160ft
raps, straight down, from bolted anchors (first one has chains, second one
could use some), lands you in the gully at right. A short scramble from here
brings you back to the ledge at the base of the route. The other two climbers
are working on pitch 2 when we get back down. Their leader is pretty fast,
but the second is having difficulties with the tricky flare. Amazing route!
The first pitch is an all-time classic for sure.
Atlantis
(1st pitch only, 5.10c):
We climb
the first pitch of Atlantis after climbing Igor Unchained in the morning.
When we arrive at the base of the route, a couple of climbers are at the top
of the 5.10c flake. Looks like they intend to continue up the 11+ line of
beautiful flakes above. We watch them for some time and have lunch. Having
climb this pitch before, Eric feels very nervous about it… on sight climbing
is much easier on the nerves. Eventually, we go for it.
It's just
an excellent, sustained pitch with layback and face moves up to a bolted anchor.
The triock is to conserve energy for the high crux. Eric ends up doing all
right despite his nervousness.
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The
first pitch of Atlantis follows the incredible flake.
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Eric
starting the pitch.
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Looking
back at Lucie.
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