Good climbing
very close to the road can be found at Pitchoff Chimney Cliff. This small
cliff has two good moderates: "Pete's Farewell" (5.7) and "The
El" (5.8). Both are 3 pitches long.
Pete's
Farewell (5.7, 3p):
"Pete's
Farewell" is the first climb we get on in the Dacks. It is by far the
most popular line at Pitchoff. Arrive early or wait in line... The route's
popularity is due primarily to the short approach (5 minutes), and the moderate
grade. The route is very traversy, and has only short sections of interesting
climbing. We start with a 5.6 (sandbag!) direct start (straight up through
some roofs, then up a flared crack) to the base of the diagonal crack that
leads into the corner. Eric leads this first pitch, which is very insecure,
and a bit dirty. Sure didn't feel like 5.6!
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Two
good and popular moderates can be found at Pitchoff Chimney Cliff.
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Parked
for the night at a pull-out near the cliff.
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"Pete's
Farewell" is the most popular line on the cliff. A party
on pitch 2.
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Eric
on the direct start. The standard start is shared with "The
El".
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Lucie
leading pitch 2.
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I lead
the rest of the route. First a diagonal traverse up and left, along convenient
double cracks (one for the feet, the other for hands and pro) which lead into
the obvious corner. Up that corner at 5.7 (clean and good but very short),
to a ledge with a tree. From here, an 8' traverse left on the ledge leads
to a splitter wide crack. Starting the move off the ledge is the crux. A bit
tricky and balancy until one can transition from a straight jam into a low
angle lieback. Careful of the ledge below... Easy sailing after this. Again,
good but short.
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Higher
on pitch 2.
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Views
from the belay atop pitch 2.
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Lucie
starting pitch 3, the best pitch on the route.
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Higher
on pitch 3.
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On
our way back to the bus, we watch other parties queueing up on
the route.
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We aren't
exactly sure where to go to descend except left around the cliff. We end up
traversing exposed 3rd class to the left, then up into the woods. We bushwhack
down and left best we can until a trail of sorts materializes near a small
waterfall. When we reach the road, there are 9 people behind us, including
two waiting at the base! An OK climb but not great… we're hoping that this
is not as good as it gets…
The
El (5.8, 3p):
"The El"
is the best route on the cliff, a classic 5.8 route that traverses horizontally
for one pitch, then shoots straight nice cracks for the next. This time, we
change and rack up quickly at the car, then hike up to the route with just
the gear and ropes. That way, we won't have to return to the base at the end
of the day.
Eric carries
our approach shoes clipped to his harness. We take the standard start up the
left wall of the chimney. Not bad, actually. A bouldery wet start brings you
to a ledge, where you can put some pro. From there, a short scramble deposits
you at the base of the huge corner. There is a good crack on the left wall.
The crack is easy - I would call it 5.5. I follow the crack to the ledge,
then step out left toward the arete where I set up an anchor. Eric joins me
in no time.
Soon enough,
I start the dreaded traverse. The start of the traverse is basically just
a walk as it follows a good ledge. Things get a lot more interesting once
you reach the corner crack of "Pete's Farewell". By then, you're
already about 40 feet away for your belayer.
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"The
El" features a long horizontal traverse to a clean crack.
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The
first pitch (~5.5) is a bit dirty and the least enjoyable.
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Views
from the belay atop pitch 1.
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The
second pitch traverses horizontally to reach a beautiful crack
around the corner.
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Starting
the business.
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I put
two pieces in before committing to the step across the corner. There are good
small edges for the feet and small holds for your hands; still the move feels
terribly exposed and a bit awkward. And it's not over. Another 40 feet to
go before reaching the base of the second pitch's crack system and the belay
stand. I put in way too much pro and start to whine a bit. This certainly
feels harder than 5.7! Transitioning onto the ledge at the end of the traverse
is the crux and involves an insecure face move. I'm relieved once my feet
are on the big ledge and battle with a bush a bit before walking the catwalk
leading to the base of the crack. I'm pretty much out of pro but manage to
build an anchor with what I have left. I should have belayed 10 feet higher
but I did not feel like it. It starts raining a few drops as Eric starts the
traverse but I barely notice. Eric does not think the pitch is a breeze either
and tells me he had to crouch awkwardly under the roof as he is much taller.
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Crouching
under the small roof.
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Turning
the arete is intimidating but...
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...getting
my feet on the ledge around the corner was the crux for me. Looking
back at Eric following the pitch.
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Lucie
starting pitch 3.
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Just
below the crux bulge.
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I almost
give up the next lead to Eric, but the crack looks too good to pass. This
(third) pitch is rated 5.8 but feels easier than the traverse as it is more
straightforward. Two crux sections, in my opinion: getting into the offwidth
just above the belay, and turning the bulge higher up. The book calls for
gear up to 3" but I sure am glad to have a #4 Camalot with me to protect
the offwidth. You can easily stem to place pro in the corner below the bulge,
but turning the bulge proper requires a hard crank move or two. Good jams
and pro though (yellow and blue Camalot). Above that, the angle relents and
the difficulties are pretty much over. I belay in a little niche (same belay
I used for Pete's Farewell) and bring Eric up. He leads the last pitch to
the woods (low 5th class). The weather is still holding and we chat happily
as we change into our approaches shoes and reorganize the gear. Nothing like
a good route to lift your spirits! A bit of a bushwhack and we're back at
the car.
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Higher
on pitch 3.
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Bushwhacking
on the short descent back to the car.
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Back
at the road.
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