The Climbs
Listed in reverse chronological order (most recent at top). Some climbs have links to trip report pages with photographs. If you're looking for a particular route by name, use your browser's search tool to locate it (in Microsoft Internet Explorer click on >Edit >Find).
Commitment grades for alpine routes are for comparison only. We roughly adopted Nelson and Potterfield's scale from their guidebook "Selected Climbs in The Cascades", then used our judgment to make grades in other mountain ranges (or other countries) consistent with those in the Cascades. These grades do not include time spent approaching a high camp, when one was used.
Quality ratings are of course entirely subjective and range from no star to five stars. We occasionally use NR, for "Not Recommended". Keep in mind that we have a very strong preference for long trad routes that follow striking, obvious lines... our quality ratings probably reflect that.
For a summary of climbs we've done before this trip, check the climbing page of our 2003-2004 bus trip, and our climbing resume.
Type | Location/Peak | Map | Route(s) | Rating |
Quality
|
Date
|
Remarks |
Rock | Indian Creek, UT | West Coast '09 | Various (trad) | from 5.10 to 5.11 |
*****
|
10/18/09
to 10/25/09
|
Words don't do it justice! THE best crack climbing destination in the universe. |
Rock |
Devils
Tower, WY
|
West Coast '09 |
Various
(trad)
|
from 5.9 to 5.11a
|
*****
|
09/25/09 to 10/03/09 |
Incredibly sustained crack climbing on sweeping basalt columns. Should be on the itinerary of any crack lover. |
Rock |
Ten
Sleep Canyon, WY
|
West Coast '09 |
Various
(sport)
|
from
5.9 to 5.11
|
***
|
09/19/09 to 09/23/09 |
Steep sport climbing on limestone in a pretty setting. |
Alpine Rock | Haystack Mountain , Wind River Mountains, WY | West Coast '09 | Minor Dihedral (5.9, 7-8p) |
***
|
09/12/09 | Good route on the West face of Haystack. Striking line. | |
Alpine Rock | Sundance Pinnacle, Wind River Mountains, WY | West Coast '09 | NE Arete (II, 5.10c, 5 to 8p) |
***
|
09/03/09
|
Incredible line on the east face of Sundance. The crux pitch is phenomenal! Unfortunately, the good climbing only starts halfway up the formation. | |
Alpine Rock | Warbonnet, Wind River Mountains, WY | West Coast '09 |
Black Elk (IV, 5.11a, 8p) (not completed - bailed after p3) |
*****
|
09/02/09
|
Amazing route on an incredible face. Definitely of the caliber of the better free routes on the Longs Peak Diamond, in Colorado. Steep, sustained, and physical, all at 12,000ft. Bailed off after three pitches. | |
Alpine Rock | Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | Open Book (5.9, 6p) |
****
|
08/28/09
|
Good line with an amazing crux pitch. Some of the best rock climbing we have found in the Tetons. | |
Alpine Rock | Disappointment Peak, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | Irene's Arete (5.10a (direct exit), 6p) |
***
|
08/27/09
|
Probably the most popular pure rock climb in the park. A great line with good climbing. | |
Alpine Rock | Mount Moran, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | CMC Route (III, 5.6) |
**
|
08/21/09
|
The easiest way to summit Mt Moran. Not an unpleasant route, but unortunately plagued by hordes of guided parties. The best part of this trip may well be the canoe approach... | |
Alpine Rock | Grand Teton, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | Gold Face (III, 5.10a, 7p) to Upper Exum Ridge (II, 5.4, 1500ft) |
****
|
08/12/09
|
An elegant direct line to the summit of the Grand. Gold Face is a harder variation to the Lower Exum, and boasts a terrific crux pitch. | |
Alpine Rock | Mount Moran, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | South Buttress Right (5.11a/b, 8p) |
****
|
08/05/09
|
Continuously fun and varied climbing on excellent rock. Too bad the route doesn't really go anywhere... | |
Mixed Alpine | The Enclosure, Grand Teton, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | Enclosure Couloir (IV, AI3, 800ft, 50° snow & ice) to Northwest Ridge of the Enclosure (III, 5.7, 4-6p) |
****
|
07/31/09
|
A very alpine combination of a moderate snow and ice couloir with a surprizingly good rock ridge. | |
Rock | Storm Point, Cascade Canyon, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | Guide's Wall (variation, 5.9+, 6p) |
**
|
07/23/09
|
Very popular climb with a mellow approach and scenic views of Mt Owen. P5 & 6 are really good. | |
Rock | Cathedral Rock, Death Canyon, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | The Snaz (5.10a, 9p) |
***
|
07/20/09
|
Known as a Teton "cragging" classic. Some good pitches, but overall not a stellar route. | |
Snow & Ice | Middle Teton, Grand Teton Natl Park, WY | West Coast '09 | Northwest Ice Couloir (III, AI3, 5.6, 40-50° snow & ice) |
****
|
07/16/09
|
Fun shorter alpine route if you catch it right (i.e. with ice!) | |
Rock | Sundance Buttress, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Mainliner (5.9, 6p) |
****
|
07/07/09
|
The classic moderate on Sundance. Varied climbing and not typical of Lumpy. | |
Rock | The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | J-Crack (5.9, 3p) to Hurley Direct (5.9, 1p) |
*****
|
07/05/09
|
THE Lumpy crack climb. So good we did had to do it twice (Lucie's lead this time). | |
Rock | West Coast '09 | Loose Ends (5.9, 3p) to Cheap Date (5.10a/b, 1p) |
*****
|
07/01/09
|
Simply amazing... what more can I say? | ||
Rock | The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Backflip (5.9, 4p) |
****
|
06/29/09
|
Good intricate line with varied climbing. | |
Rock | The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Femp (5.9, 3p) |
***
|
06/25/09
|
Wide crack classic with a thin crux. | |
RockRock | The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Melvin's Wheel (5.8+, 3p) |
****
|
06/22/09
|
Super popular moderate. A good intro to Lumpy's flared cracks. | |
The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Handbook (5.9, 4p) |
***
|
Two good pitches of sustained crack & corner climbing. | |||
Rock | The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | The Climb of the Ancient Mariner (5.10a, 3p) |
****
|
06/20/09
|
A rarity at Lumpy: pure slab climbing on the long 2nd pitch. Gorgeous line. | |
Rock | The Bookmark, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Romulan Territory (5.10b, 3p) |
****
|
06/19/09
|
Thin flared crack/corner climbing. | |
Rock | The Left Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | The Whale (5.7, 3p) |
*****
|
06/17/09
|
Must be one of the best 5.7s in the country. | |
Manifest Destiny to The Dog (5.7, 3p) |
****
|
Another great 5.7 next to the Whale. | |||||
Hiatus to Ten Years After (5.8, 3p) |
***
|
Some spice on p1 leads to a great corner above. | |||||
Rock | The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Thindependence (5.10c, 1p) to Visual Aid (10a, 2p) to Cheap Date (5.10a/b, 1p) |
*****
|
06/14/09
|
Probably the best 5.10 combo on the Book. Too classic for words. | |
Rock | The Book, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | J-Crack (5.9+, 3p) to Cheap Date (5.10a/b, 1p) |
*****
|
06/12/09
|
J-Crack is the most famous Book classic and a pure gem. Cheap Date may be the best 5.10 pitch at Lumpy, and one of the best anywhere! | |
Rock | The Bookend, Lumpy Ridge, Estes Park, CO | West Coast '09 | Orange Julius | 5.9, 4p |
****
|
06/09/09
|
Varied and interesting all the way. Features an amazing hand traverse. |
Rock |
New
River Gorge, WV (and nearby Summersville Lake)
|
East Coast |
Various
(mostly trad)
|
wide
range from 5.7 to 5.11b
|
****
|
05/10/09 to 06/01/09 |
Really good, single pitch cragging with easy access! As good as T-Wall, and there are more routes! Incredible variety of styles. |
Rock |
Red
River Gorge, KY
|
East Coast |
Various
(trad & sport)
|
wide
range from 5.7 to 5.10
|
**
|
05/03/09 to 05/09/09 |
The few good trad lines are really scattered. No lack of overhanging pocket-pulling sport routes - if this is your cup of tea... Very rainy and humid place. |
Rock |
T-Wall,
Chattanooga, TN
|
East Coast |
Various
(trad)
|
wide
range from 5.7 to 5.10c
|
****
|
Several days between 04/11/09 and 04/28/09 |
Really outstanding single pitch trad climbing. Amazing selection of cracks, corners, and roofs, mostly in the 5.8 to 5.11 range. Perhaps the best trad crag east of Lumpy Ridge? Beware of frequent hunting closures. |
Rock | Foster Falls, Chattanooga area, TN | East Coast |
Ankles
Away
(5.9)
and
Mommy
(5.9)
|
*
|
04/17/09
|
Steep sport climbing in a pretty spot. Got pumped silly on two bolted 5.9s. This stuff just ain't for us! | |
Rock | Sunset Rock, Chattanooga, TN | East Coast |
Broken
Arrow
(5.10a),
A
Sense of Adventure
(5.9+, TR), Walk
in the Park
(5.8) and
Train Time
(510a)
|
**
|
04/16/09
|
A few good lines and easy access but quite spread out and most of the rock is not nearly as appealing as T-Wall. | |
Rock | Seneca Rocks, WV | East Coast |
Tomato
(5.8, 3p)
and
The Prune
(5.7 PG, 4p).
|
***
|
04/05/09
|
Tomato is a classic. The Prune is the most sandbagged 5.7 we've ever found; Link p1 and p2 together for a really good 60m pitch. | |
Rock | Seneca Rocks, WV | East Coast |
The
Burn
(5.8), Marshall
Madness (5.9)
and
Crack of Dawn
(5.10a)
|
***
|
04/04/09
|
Three very good, very steep routes. Had a mini-epic due to hurricane force winds on the routes... | |
Rock | Seneca Rocks, WV | East Coast |
West
Pole
(5.7+, 2p)
with
the
Direct Finish exit
(5.8,
1p) and
Triple S
(5.8+, 1p)
|
****
|
03/31/09
|
Very pretty place and fun climbing. Extreme sandbagging on anything moderate. | |
Ice |
Cap-au-Renard, Gaspésie, Québec |
Québec Ice | Montagnes Russes | WI3+ and WI4+, 60m/200ft |
**
|
03/25/09
|
Fun shorter pitches right by the road; thankfully shaded. |
Ice |
Mt-Saint-Pierre, Gaspésie, Québec |
Québec Ice | Corneille | WI5+, 75m/250ft |
****
|
03/24/09
|
A very steep pitch with wicked ice formations and great views of the Saint Laurent. Tricky conditions: cold and brittle in winter, but also gets a lot of sun. |
Ice |
Parc des Hautes-Gorges-de-la Rivière-Malbaie, Québec |
Québec Ice | La Pomme D'Or |
WI5+, 330m/1100ft (not completed - bailed on p3 due to broken pick, damned BD picks!!) |
*****
|
03/14/09
to 03/17/09
|
One of the most coveted and one of the tallest pure ice routes in North America. |
Ice |
Rivière Sainte Marguerite, Côte-Nord, Québec |
Québec Ice | Le Pilier Simon-Proulx | WI5, 175m/600ft |
*****
|
03/09/09
|
Classic. A really gorgeous route with a beautiful approach on the frozen river (make sure it is well frozen and be careful). |
Ice |
Canyon of the Rivière Sainte Marguerite, Parc des Monts Valins, Saguenay, Québec |
Québec Ice | La Dent de Dracula | WI5, 50m/170ft |
***
|
02/26/09
|
50m of steep, unrelenting climbing in an out-of-the-way canyon with a very pretty approach. |
Ice | North bank of the Saguenay Fjord, Québec | Québec Ice |
Parapluie (retreaded after p1 due to icefall danger) |
WI3, 100m/330ft |
**
|
02/25/09
|
Rated 4+ to 5 in the book but don't believe it. Easy climbing around huge, beautiful, and dangerous ice umbrellas. Worth it for its unique setting on the fjord. |
Ice | Mt Kineo, Rockwood, Maine | Québec Ice | Maineline | WI5+, 90m/300ft |
*****
|
02/22/09
|
A really gorgeous, steep line with easy access (except for a long drive from just about anywhere). |
Ice | Pont Rouge, Québec | Québec Ice | Le Tube (WI5, 30m/100ft) and Valentin (WI5+, 30m/100ft) |
**
|
02/20/09
|
Two steep columns in a pretty canyon. Valentin was so much fun that we didt twice in a row... | |
Ice | Rivière Saint-Maurice, Mauricie, Québec | Québec Ice | Topaze (WI4, 170m/560ft) |
*****
|
02/17/09
|
Very striking, golden waterfall. Feels more like a sustained WI3, with a short (10m) vertical step. | |
Ice | Chutes Montmorency, Québec | Québec Ice |
Super Momo (WI4, 85m/280ft), Le Pilier Direct (WI4+, 80m/260ft), Le Pilier de Cristal (WI4+, 80m/260ftft) |
****
|
02/13/09 and 02/15/09 |
All really fun routes in a unique setting. Don't forget your GoreTex for Super Momo... | |
Ice | Parc du Mont-Sainte-Anne, Québec | Québec Ice | Chutes Larose (lower tier) | WI3-4, 45m/150ft |
**
|
02/10/09
|
Nothing too exciting but a still a pretty waterfall in a quiet area. Two smaller tiers above the first are rarely climbable. |
Ice | Chutes Montmorency, Québec | Québec Ice | La Congelée (WI3, 100m/330ft), Le Pilier Direct (WI4+, 80m/260ft), Le Pilier de Crystal (WI4+, 80m/260ft) |
****
|
02/09/09
|
Our first day of climbing after being grounded for a month due to injury! | |
Ice | Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT | Northeast Ice | Renormalization (WI4, 200+ft) |
**
|
01/06/08
|
Just right of the famous and much harder "Mindbender". | |
Ice | Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT | Northeast Ice | Glass Menagerie (WI5, 300ft) and Crazy Diamond (WI4+, 250ft) |
****
|
01/04/08
|
Two outstanding lines, each climbed in two pitches. | |
Ice | Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT | Northeast Ice | Float Like a Butterfly (WI4+, 300ft) |
***
|
01/02/08
|
A good climb, left of Twenty Below Zero. Two possible finishes. | |
Ice | Cannon Mountain, NH | Northeast Ice | The Black Dike (WI4, M3, 500ft) |
*****
|
12/26/08
|
An amazing line and an all time classic. Extremely popular, for good reason. Get an early start. | |
Ice | Smugglers Notch, VT | Northeast Ice | Dave's Snotsickle (WI3+, 250ft) |
***
|
12/23/08
|
The most striking, obvious line on the South wall as you walk up the road into the notch. Start can be thin early season. | |
Ice | Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT | Northeast Ice | Twenty Below Zero Gully (WI4, 300ft) and Crazy Diamond (WI4, 250ft) |
***
|
12/18/08 |
Not much ice to be found in the NE, so we're back at Willoughby, redoing whatever looks climbable. | |
Ice | Mt Pisgah, Lake Willoughby, VT | Northeast Ice | Twenty Below Zero Gully (WI4) |
***
|
12/14/08 |
One of the easier classics at Willoughby...and not really a gully. Two full pitches. | |
Ice | Smugglers Notch, VT | Northeast Ice | Grand Confusion (WI3+) and Blue Room (WI4) |
**
|
12/05/08
|
A rambling gully route, and a nice, fat ice pillar. | |
Ice | Franconia Notch, NH | Northeast Ice | Ace of Spade (WI4) and Short Trick (WI3-) |
***
|
11/30/08
|
Ace of Spade is worthwhile. Also did "Short Trick" because we were there. | |
Ice | Frankenstein Cliff, Crawford Notch area, NH | Northeast Ice | Standard (WI3-) |
***
|
11/23/08
|
First pitch of ice in two years! ...and the only climbable route we have found. | |
Rock | The Near Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Birdland
(5.8 PG)
|
**
|
11/17/08
|
Nice face climb and major sandbag (perhaps the most sandbagged 5.8 we've ever been on). | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Rhododendron
(5.6),
Apoplexy
(5.9+)
|
***
|
11/12/08
|
After warming up on Rhododendron, Eric got thoroughly pumped and a bit freaked on Apoplexy... | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Frog's
Head
(5.6, 2p),
Maria
(5.6, 3p),
BB
(5.8+), Low Exposure (10d)
|
***
|
11/10/08
|
Frog's and Maria are two of the better moderates at the Gunks. Don't miss the 3rd pitch of Maria! BB is fun and LE makes a good desperate pump out for the end of the day. | |
Rock | The Near Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Alphonse
(5.8),
Grand Central
(5.9 PG)
|
**
|
11/09/08
|
Our first day at the Near Trapps. Spent a lot of time wondering which climb we were looking at (thanks to the very shitty guidebook). Got two nice climbs in. | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Cascading
Crystal Kaleidoscope
(aka CCK, 5.8+, 3p),
Directissima to
High Exposure (5.9, 3p)
|
***
|
11/05/08
|
Classic 3rd pitch on CCK. Directissima is OK but very pumpy (p1). High E has wild positions but uninteresting climbing (jug pulling). | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Rhododendron
(5.6, 1p),
Horseman (5.5,
1p),
Jackie (5.5,
2p), Bunny (direct) (5.6, 2p)
|
***
|
11/04/08
|
Four well protected climbs. Lucie's intro to Gunks leading. A great day at the cliff... and a great day for the country! | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Finger
Locks and Cedar Box (5.8,
1p),
Ant's Line
(5.9, 1p),
Bonnie's Roof (direct exit) (5.10a,
2p)
|
****
|
11/02/08
|
FL&CB was just a warm up...the two 5.9 dihedral routes maybe the best at the Gunks. Ant's Line is amazing and technical, while Bonnie's is more burly. Do the direct exit, you won't regret it! | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Shockley's
Ceiling
(5.8+, 1p),
Snooky's Return (5.8,
2p),
Beginner's Delight (5.3, p1 only)
|
***
|
10/31/08
|
Shockley's is a well known classic (originally rated 5.6). Snooky's is a really good technical route. | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
City
Lights
(5.8, 2p)
|
**
|
10/30/08
|
Really cold day... fun technical route. | |
Rock | The Trapps, The Gunks, NY | East Coast |
Ken's
Crack
(5.7, 1p),
Baby (5.8,
2p),
Something Interesting (5.7+,
2p),
Laurel (5.9, 1p)
|
***
|
10/27/08
|
Our first day at the Gunks. Trying to pick well protected crack climbs and get used to the steep rock and stiff ratings. "Something Interesting" is really fun! | |
Rock | Rumney Crags, Plymouth, NH | Northeast Rock |
Sport |
Single
pitch, 5.8 to 5.10
|
*
|
10/23/08 - 10/24/08 |
Most popular sport climbing spot in the Northeast. Crowded, pumpy, bolted routes. Fee required to park. In short: we hated it. |
Rock | Cannon Mountain, Franconia Notch, White Mountains, NH | Northeast Rock |
5.9
A0 R, 5p
(bailed after 3 pitches)
|
***
|
10/19/08
|
Nice climbing on p1 and 2. Bailed off pitch 3 due to risky unprotected moves going around an arete. | |
Rock | Whitehorse Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH | Northeast Rock |
5.9+,
2p & 5.10b , 1p
|
*
|
10/1808
|
Slab & face climbing on HtH leads to steep finger crack. Not an obvious line... | |
Rock | Whitehorse Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH | Northeast Rock |
5.9+,
5p
|
**
|
10/14/08
|
A bit chossy in places (p2 especially) but great climbing on p4 (flake) and an awesome final roof traverse. | |
Rock | Barber Wall (a.k.a. Upper Wall) Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH | Northeast Rock |
Chicken
Delight (5.9), Nutcracker (5.10a), Double Vee (5.9+)
|
**
|
10/13/08
|
Short & steep crack routes. Slippery, coarse-grained rock. Not nearly as good as the Practice Slab IMO. | |
Rock | Cannon Mountain, Franconia Notch, White Mountains, NH | Northeast Rock |
5.7,
6p
(have done 5.9 exit variation)
|
***
|
10/11/08
|
The best line on Cannon and a really good route on clean rock. | |
Rock | Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH | Northeast Rock |
5.10a
(.9R), 2p
|
**
|
10/10/08
|
A fun approach pitch to a classic clean corner. Risky moves exiting the second pitch of the BoS. | |
Rock | Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH | Northeast Rock |
Recom-Beast
(Beast
Flake var. to Recompense)
|
5.9,
4-5p
|
***
|
10/07/08
|
Classic climbing and a good line. A must do. |
Rock | Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH | Northeast Rock |
5.8+,
5p
|
**
|
10/06/08
|
Good moderate climbing, unfortunatley broken by a large forested ledge. | |
Rock | Practice Slab, Cathedral Ledge, Nortth Conway, NH | Northeast Rock |
Child's
Play (.6), Kiddy Crack (.7), Bird's Nest (.9), They
Died Laughing (.9), The Slot (.10b), Recluse (11b)
|
***
|
10/05/08
|
Incredible concentration of outstanding short cracks, many first freed by Hot Henry... | |
Rock | The Precipice (aka South Wall), Acadia Nat'l Park, ME | East Coast |
Old
Town (.7) to Return to Forever (.9), Gunklandia (.7)
to Emigrant Crack (.10a), Birch Ade (.8)
|
**
|
09/30/08
|
Very good quality climbing but a definite lack of striking lines. | |
Rock | Otter Cliffs, Acadia Nat'l Park, ME | East Coast |
Various
topropes
|
5.7
to 5.10d
|
*
|
09/24/08
|
Short topropes on a pretty ocean cliff. Worth it for the location and the views. |
Rock | Spider's Web, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | TR (.10a), On The Loose (.9+/10a), Dacker Cracker (.10c) |
***
|
09/13/08
|
Steep, sustained, classic crack climbing. The best we found in the Dacks. | |
Rock | Moss Cliff, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | Hard Times | 5.9+, 3p |
**
|
09/10/08
|
Not as good as it looks from the road. The Tyrolean across the river to get there is the highlight. |
Rock | Upper Washbowl, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | Hesitation and Partition | 5.8, 4p, and 5.9- |
**
|
09/08/08
|
Popular and sandbagged. Some of the better multipitch climbing in the 'Dacks. |
Rock | Pitchoff Chimney Cliff, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | The El | 5.8, 3p |
***
|
09/04/08
|
The 80 foot horizontal traverse is pretty exciting! Good, exposed climbing makes this a classic. |
Rock | Poke-O-Moonshine, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | Bloody Mary | 5.9+, 2p |
**
|
09/03/08
|
Good steep climbing. Better than it looks. Horrendous highway noise... |
Rock | Barkeater Crag, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | Fun City (.7), Mr Clean (.9), & Eat Yourself a Pie (.8+) |
**
|
09/01/08
|
Small crag with a good selection of moderates in a pleasant setting with lots of birch trees. | |
Rock | Spider's Web, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | Slim Pickins (5.9+) & Esthesia (.10a) |
***
|
08/31/08
|
Very good crag with several steep (overhanging) cracks. Slim Pickins is a fun, technical dihedral. Esthesia is pure crack climbing with a wide crux. | |
Rock | Pitchoff Chimney Cliff, Adirondacks, NY | Northeast Rock | Pete's Farewell | 5.7, 3p |
**
|
08/31/08
|
A 5 minute approach makes this climb extremely popular. Short sections of good climbing... |
Alpine Rock | Mt Assiniboine, AB, Canada | West Coast | North Ridge | Grade III, 5.5 |
***
|
08/16/08
|
Loose and mostly unpleasant climbing on an exceptionally beautiful mountain... a classic Rockies route. Three stars for the mountain, not the climbing. |
Alpine Rock | Mt Gimli, Valhalla Range, BC, Canada | West Coast | South Ridge | 5.8, 8p |
****
|
08/12/08
|
One of the best alpine routes we've done in Canada (except for the Bugs). Stunning line. P1 and 5 are the best. |
Alpine Rock | Colchuck Balanced Rock, Alpine Lakes area, Leavenworth, WA | West Coast | Colchuck Balanced Rock (West Face) | 5.12a, 11p (very soft rating!) |
****
|
08/04/08
|
One of the best technical rock routes in the Cascades. Tough approach. Soft rating. |
Rock | Icicle Canyon, Leavenworth, WA | West Coast | Careno Crag, Regular Route | 5.10, 4p |
*
|
08/01/08
|
Good climbing but no line, very short pitches, and dangerous cruxes... |
Rock | Lower Town Wall, Index, WA | West Coast | Godzilla - City Park - Sloe Children | 5.9 - 5.10b - 5.10d |
****
|
07/28/08
|
Simply amazing. Sloe Children kicked our asses (very sustained). |
Rock | Lower Town Wall, Index, WA | West Coast | Godzilla | 5.9 |
***
|
07/27/08
|
Classic. |
Rock | Thin Fingers | 5.11a |
***
|
Gorgeous line; strenous at the top | |||
Rock | Princely Ambitions | 5.10a |
***
|
Fun, interesting route; technical rather than pumpy. | |||
Rock | Static Point, WA | West Coast | Online | 5.10b, 6p |
**
|
07/25/08
|
Generic slab with huge runouts and rusty anchors. |
Rock | Upper Town Wall, Index, WA | West Coast | Davis-Holland - Lovin' Arms combo | 5.10c, 6p |
****
|
07/23/08
|
A classic by any measure. "Lovin' Arms" looks dirty from below but climbs well. |
Rock | Drug Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Natl Park, CA | West Coast | OZ | 5.10d, 4p |
****
|
07/12/08
|
Varied and continuous. The 10c corner is simply amazing! |
Hobbit Book | 5.7R, 4p |
***
|
Mellow climbing and a striking line. Serious runout on p3. A logical continuation to OZ. | ||||
Rock | Fairview Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Natl Park, CA | West Coast | Regular Route | 5.9, 12p |
****
|
07/10/08
|
The classic on Fairview. The first two pitches are a bit polished. Extremely popular. |
Rock | Fairview Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite Natl Park, CA | West Coast | Lucky Streaks | 5.10d, 6p |
*****
|
07/07/08
|
Six pitches of cracks and knobs up a beautiful, obvious line. Classic. The ultimate user-friendly multi-pitch: short approach, easy descent. |
Rock | Orange Pillar, Patricia Bowl, Rock Creek Canyon, Mammoth, CA | West Coast | Tommy Boy | 5.10a, 1p |
**
|
07/04/08
|
Beautiful granite in a gorgeous basin. More alpine than other crags in the area. |
Boi-oi-oi-ing | 5.10a, 2p |
****
|
|||||
High Expectations | 5.10d, 1p |
***
|
|||||
Rock | Gong Show Crag, Rock Creek Canyon, Mammoth, CA | West Coast | Sideshow | 5.10a, 1p |
**
|
07/01/08
|
One of the best roadside crags in the Mammoth area. Flawless granite. |
He She | 5.10b, 1p |
***
|
|||||
Wages of Skin | 5.10c, 1p |
***
|
|||||
Eavesdropping | 5.10c, 1p |
***
|
|||||
Rock | Cardinal (and V8) Pinnacle(s), Bishop, CA | West Coast | Crack Kingdom | 5.10c, 4p |
**
|
06/29/08
|
The crux pitch (#3) is really good, but overall, the line is not distinctive. |
V8 | 5.10d, 1p |
***
|
Strinking, steep, sustained, classic crack! | ||||
Rock | Pratt's Crack Buttress, Pine Creek, Bishop, CA | West Coast | Sheila | 5.10a, 1p |
***
|
06/27/08
|
Sustained and interesting corner crack, ending in lieback crucx and short chimney. 65m pitch. |
Rites of Spring | 5.10d, 4p |
****
|
Old-fashioned steep, sometimes wide cracks | ||||
Rock | The Whale, Whitney Portal, Lone Pine, CA | West Coast | Bony Fingers | 5.10c, 3p |
****
|
06/25/08
|
Really fun finger crack on gorgeous rock. |
Rock | Voodo Dome, Needles, CA | West Coast | White Punks on Dope | 5.9, 6p |
****
|
06/22/08
|
Superbly varied; classic 4th pitch - and 6th if you go up the 5.9 finger crack on the left (you should). |
Rock | The Sorcerer, Needles, CA | West Coast | Atlantis (1st pitch) | 5.10c |
***
|
06/18/08
|
Classic steep flake; 3 stars because we only did p1...but the rest of the line looks awesome if you're up to 5.11+... |
The Witch, Needles, CA | Igor Unchained | 5.9, 3p |
*****
|
THE classic line on the Witch. Straight shot to the top and great sustained crack climbing. | |||
Rock | The Sorcerer, Needles, CA | West Coast | Thin Ice | 5.10b, 3p |
*****
|
06/15/08
|
Probably the most striking line on the east face of the Sorcerer. Classic finger cracks on p1 lead to... 5.10a squeeze on p2! |
The Witch, Needles, CA | Airy Interlude | 5.10a, 4p |
****
|
Just left of Igor is this amazing, picture perfect hand traverse (p2). | |||
Rock | Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | The Vampire | 5.11a, 5p |
*****
|
06/11/08
|
A Tahquitz classic! Follows a direct line up the Center Bulge. P2 follows an awesome lieback flake. Short cruxes and good pro. |
Rock | Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | Serpentine | 5.9, 3p |
**
|
06/08/08
|
Generic slab. |
Sundance | 5.10b, 3p |
***
|
Old classic on the Sunshine Face. Crux move right off ledge should be rated PG IMHO. | ||||
Johnny Quest | 5.10b, 1p |
***
|
Burly finger crack. Much too short but very good. | ||||
Rock | Suicide Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | Flower of High Rank & Etude | 5.9, 2p & 5.11a, 1p |
****
|
06/05/08
|
Two of top 3 crack climbs at Suicide? |
Revelation | 5.10a, 3p |
**
|
Classic slab climbing on the Weeping Wall. Very slabby (duh!) and runout. | ||||
Rock | Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | Whodunit | 5.9, 7p |
*****
|
06/03/08
|
One of the best lines at Tahquitz with very good pro. We'd done it before but it's so good that we had to do it again. |
Rock | Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | Fingertrip | 5.7, 4p |
***
|
05/31/08
|
The classic of the grade at Tahquitz. The 1st pitch is phenomenal. |
On the Road (linked with Traitor Horn) | 5.10c (& 5.8), 5p |
***
|
OtR is a striking thin dihedral that sits one pitch off the ground. Linking this with TH, a wild 5.8, makes for a great route. | ||||
Rock | Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | Left Ski Track | 5.6, 3p |
**
|
05/29/08
|
Very different from other routes at Tahquitz: steep and juggy. Somewhat tricky pro. |
Rock | Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | Human Fright (p1) & Camino Real | 5.10a |
***
|
05/27/08
|
The 1st pitch of HF makes a nice warmup. CR's 3rd pitch is a classic. The rest of that route is nothing special. |
Rock | Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | El Monte, Edgehogs (p1), Farewell Horizontal | 5.10b, 5.10a and 5.10b/c |
*
|
05/20/08
|
Bailed off El Monte after 2 pitches (dangerous rusted bolt). Didn't see any bolts above p1 of Edgehogs (?). Farewell Horizontal is quite good. |
Rock | Tahquitz Rock, Idyllwild, CA | West Coast | Super Pooper | 5.10a, 3p |
***
|
05/18/08
|
Another one we had done before, but it's a really good line! |
Rock | Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Epinephrine |
5.9,
16p
|
*****
|
05/11/08
|
We'd done it before but had to do it again. One of the very best long classic routes at RR. |
Rock | Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Sour Mash |
5.10a,
7-8p
|
****
|
05/09/08
|
Really excellent route; sustained and varied. |
Rock | Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Refried Brains (p1-4) |
5.9,
4p
|
***
|
05/06/08
|
Very good, sustained route on gorgeous rock (p1-4). Didn't do the rest of the route, which Handren' guidebook reports as loose. |
Rock | Aeolian Wall, Mount Wilson, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Woman of Mountain Dreams |
5.11a,
16p
|
***
|
05/03/08
|
An amazing plumb line up the center of the Aeolian wall. Good climbing on p2 to p9. The upper pitches are loose/brittle. The third star is for the line. |
Rock | Black Velvet Wall, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Overhanging Hangover & Johnny Come Lately |
5.10a,
2p & 5.10d, 1p
|
**
|
04/30/08
|
Two good shorter routes under (and through) the giant roof. |
Rock | Wholesome Fullback buttress, Black Velvet Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Amber |
5.10c,
4p
|
**
|
04/28/08
|
Starts with the finger crack of Wholesome fullback, then weaves a really fun and varied second pitch on great rock. |
Rock | Eagle Wall, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Mountain Beast |
5.11-,
8p
|
***
|
04/25/08
|
Rated 11a in the Supplement to the Red Book and 10d in Handren's. You pick... Crux is a thin, well bolted traverse. Pitches 5 and 6 are excellent prototypical RR thin edge face climbing. Questionable rock on the last two pitches. |
Rock | Lotta Balls Wall, First Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Black Magic |
5.8,
4p
|
***
|
04/24/08
|
Outstanding route (particularly p1) just right of the more famous Lotta Balls. |
Rock | Solar Slab wall, Oak Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Horndogger Select & Sundog |
5.8,
3p + 5.9+, 5p
|
*
|
04/22/08
|
So-so combo. Horndogger is a logical start to reach Sundog but is a pretty poor route with very brittle rock. Sundog is pretty good though. |
Rock | Pine Creek Canyon, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Birdland & Big Horn |
5.7+,
5p & 5.8, 1p
|
****
|
04/20/08
|
Probably the best 5.7 at RR, and a striking pitch just to its left. Highly recommended combo. |
Rock | Willow Springs, Red Rocks, NV | West Coast | Peaches & Karate Crack |
Single
pitch, 5.7 & 5.9
|
*
|
04/19/08
|
Two good single pitch routes, though Karate Crack is a bit short... |
Rock | SummerdayValley, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia | Waxman & Hard Rain |
Single
pitch, 11 & 10
|
**
|
04/11/08
|
Stopped at this popular crag again on our way back to Araps. Two good routes with incredibly steep climbing for the grade. |
Rock | Barbican Wall and the Watchtower, Central Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia | Rapier (direct finish), Beezlebub, & Nerd's Day Out |
19,
15, & 16
|
*
|
04/10/08
|
"Rapier" direct is the best line on Barbican Wall. Watchtower is a convenient crag near halls Gap with a few short trad and sport lines. |
Rock | Mt Rosea, Central Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia |
Diane |
18,
3p
|
****
|
04/08/08
|
Back to Mt Rosea for more very good multi-pitch cragging. Diane is outstanding! Martin Eden also good (and hard) despite questionable first pitch. |
Martin Eden |
19, 3p
|
**
|
|||||
Rock | Mt Arapiles, VA, Australia | Australia | Trad (several) |
13
to 20, 1 to 4p
|
**
|
03/26/08 to 04/06/08 and 04/12/08 |
A bit disapointed with "the best crag in the universe" (as Aussies call it). Steep climbing on not-so-good- looking rock. A few good natural lines. Great camping. Probably the best crag in Victoria because of its convenience and the number of easy lines of good quality (12 and under). Lacks good climbs in the 16-17 range. Stiff grades. |
Rock | Mt Rosea, Central Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia | La Debutante |
15, 5p
|
**
|
03/21/08
to 03/23/08
|
Best multi-pitch climbing in the Grampians (and in the crags we visited in Australia). Amazing fine-grained rock. |
Australia | The Last Rites |
19,
3p
|
****
|
||||
Australia | Heretic |
17,
3p
|
***
|
||||
Rock | Barbican Rock, Central Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia | The Lonely Race |
19,
2p
|
**
|
03/20/08
|
Some loose rock, but a good line up pretty orange rock. |
Rock | The Bundaleer, Central Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia | Scarab |
12,
2-3p
|
****
|
03/19/08
|
Interesting and varied climbing. One of the best multi-pitch at the crag. |
Australia | Blimp |
20,
1p
|
***
|
The area classic. A striking corner, short but very strenuous. | |||
Australia | Gerontian |
17,
3p
|
*
|
OK route. | |||
Rock | Mt Stapylton Amphitheater, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia | Sluice/Navarre |
17,
3p
|
**
|
03/11/08
|
Two good and well protected natural lines. Navarre requires balancy lieback moves. Simpleton follows a striking corner with more burly climbing. |
Simpleton |
18,
2p
|
***
|
|||||
Rock | SummerdayValley, Northern Grampians, VA, Australia | Australia | Trad (several) |
10 to 17, 1p |
***
|
03/10/08
|
Most popular crag in the Grampians. Very crowded. Nice climbing. |
Hike | Mt Kosciuszko, Kosciuszko N.P., Australia | Australia | Main Range Track & Summit Trail (loop) |
hike
(22km)
|
*
|
03/07/08
|
Pleasant hike through alpine (!) terrain leads to highest summit in Australia. Very crowded summit barely at the altitude of Los Alamos! |
Rock | Mt Buffalo, VA, Australia | Australia | Where Angels Fear to Thread |
17, 5p (19 direct start) |
**
|
03/05/08
|
The moderate classic of the area. A good route if you like offwidths and rough granite. Even with taped hands and ankle-high crack shoes, we left a lot of skin on this one! Our ropes got pretty worn too. |
Australia | Banana (?) Crack |
16,
1p
|
-
|
03/02/08
|
A short crack route, that tops out at the paragliding ramp. | ||
Rock | Sublime Point , Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia | Australia | Sweet Dreams (17 finish) |
17,
3-5p
|
*
|
02/26/08
|
Longing for a mutlipitch route, we decided to go for this one. Somewhat of a local classic. An OK route but not exceptional by any measure. |
Rock | Zigzag Crag, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia | Australia | Sport (several) |
Single
pitch, 17 to 19
|
-
|
02/24/08
|
Pumpy face climbing on carrot bolts... |
Rock | Big Top , Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia | Australia | Sport |
Single
pitch, 17 to 19
|
NR
|
02/23/08
|
An out-of-the-way crag with bolted sport and trad routes. Climbed a tough bolted chimney. Backed off another route with dangerous fall potential. |
Rock | Mt Piddington, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia | Australia | Trad (several) |
Single
pitch, 13 to 21
|
****
|
02/22/08
|
A few great crack lines. Best trad climbing we found in the Blueys. |
Rock | Mt York, Blue Mountains, NSW, Australia | Australia | Trad and sport (several) |
Single
pitch, 14 to 18
|
*
|
02/17/08
to 02/18/08
|
Mostly steep and pumpy climbing on carrots bolts! A few trad lines as well. |
Rock | Castle Rock, Christchurch, NZ | New Zealand | Trad (several) |
Single
pitch, 15 to 18
|
**
|
02/06/08
|
Tallest crag near Christchurch. A couple of worthwhile routes. |
Rock | Kapiti, Christchurch, NZ | New Zealand | Trad (several) |
Single
pitch, 15 to 18
|
*
|
02/03/08
|
One of the small crags near Christchurch. Convenient and very popular. |
Rock | Mihiwaka, Dunedin, NZ | New Zealand | Trad (several) |
Single
pitch, 15 to 18
|
*
|
01/30/08
|
Nice little crag. Close to Dunedin, one of our favourite cities in NZ because of its large student population and despite its awful weather. |
Alpine Rock | Saber, Darran Mountains, NZ | New Zealand | North Face (attempt) |
Grade III, 18, 10p (not completed) |
**
|
01/18/08
to 01/21/08
|
A Darran classic. Expect to suffer on the long and occasionally technical approach. Decided to bail halfway up because of finicky weather and the fact that Eric had somehow dropped his belay device. |
Snow & Ice | Mt Tasman (& Lendenfeld), Fox Glacier, NZ | New Zealand | North Shoulder via Mt Lendenfeld |
glacier
travel, up to 60° snow & ice
|
*****
|
01/11/08
|
A very exposed ice arete on a beautiful mountain (2nd highest peak)...complete with chopper access to the door of the hut. |
Alpine Rock | Mt Barnicoat, Fox Glacier, NZ | New Zealand | Moonshine Buttress |
Grade
III, 19, 7p
|
**
|
01/09/08
|
Striking line, obvious from Pioneer Hut, but very mediocre (loose and runout) climbing. Great views of Mt Tasman though. |
Alpine Rock | Moir's Mate, Darran Mountains, NZ | New Zealand | Bowen-Allan Corner |
Grade
III, 17, 6p
|
**
|
01/05/08
|
An exposed knife edge ridge leads to the base of the climb. A 1-day Darran classic. Last two pitches are good. Expect steep tuffa (grass) moves and crappiness on the bottom pitches. |
Rock | Mount Horrible, near Timaru, NZ | New Zealand | Various (trad) |
14
to 20
|
*
|
01/01/08
|
Crack climbing on good clean basalt, but the routes are incredibly short. |
Rock | Mount Somers, NZ | New Zealand | Christian Principals & Orange Wall |
Single
pitch trad cragging, 15 to 21
|
*
|
12/28/07
to 12/30/07
|
Basalt column climbing. A long hike (3hrs) leads to too few quality climbs. Not worth the effort unless spending the night at the hut appeals to you (nice hut but crowded). |
Rock | Wye Creek, Queenstown, NZ | New Zealand | Various (sport) |
14
to 20
|
*
|
12/25/07
|
More of an outdoor gym than anything else. Nice views of the lake. |
Snow & Ice | Tititea (aka Mt Aspiring), Aspiring N.P., NZ | New Zealand | Southwest Ridge |
glacier
travel, up to 60° snow & ice (AI3), rock (~10), mixed (~M4)
|
*****
|
12/18/07
to 12/20/07
|
THE striking line up a gorgeous mountain. A definite must-do. |
Rock | Diamond Crag, Wanaka Rock, NZ | New Zealand | Various (sport and trad) |
17
to 20
|
***
|
12/14/07
|
A shady and out of the way crag. Good mix of slab, thin edging, and crack climbing. |
Rock | Hospital Crag and The Tombstone, Wanaka Rock, NZ | New Zealand | Various (sport) |
14
to 19
|
**
|
12/13/07
|
The most popular crag in Wanaka. |
Snow & Ice | Mount Barff, Aspiring N.P., NZ | New Zealand | (attempt) |
Grade
III, glacier travel, up to 50° snow
|
***
|
12/08/07
to 12/10/07
|
Nice climb with great views of Aspiring. Had to turn around 3/4 way up due to deep soft snow. |
Hike | Avalanche Peak, Arthur's Pass, NZ | New Zealand | Avalanche Peak Track (up) & Scott's Track (down) |
Hike
(some 3rd class)
|
**
|
12/03/07
|
Nice hike with great views of Rolleston and friendly keas (wild parrots). |
Snow & Ice | Mt Rolleston, Arthur's Pass, NZ | New Zealand | Otira Slide |
Grade
II, 45° snow
|
**
|
12/02/07
|
Good training route with easy access from Arthur's Pass. |
Rock | Charleston, NZ | New Zealand | Main Wall |
18
|
*
|
11/28/07
|
Sea cliff climbing. Beautiful but spooky place. Make sure the Tasman is relatively calm or you'll get soaked! The pro is marginal in places. |
Rock | Pohara, near Payne's Ford, NZ | New Zealand | Various (sport) |
18-19
|
*
|
11/25/07
and 11/26/07
|
One star for the setting, by the sea. Weird climbing on limestone slopers. |
Snow & Ice | Taranaki (aka Mt Egmont) | New Zealand | East Ridge |
Grade
II, up to 55° snow & ice
|
***
|
11/17/07
|
Great line up a classic volcano. Recommended. |
Snow & Ice | Ruapehu (Tahurangi, highest summit), Tongariro N.P., NZ | New Zealand | Skyline Ridge |
Grade
II, 40° snow
|
**
|
11/11/07
|
Nice introduction to NZ ice. |
Hike | Tongariro, Tongariro N.P., NZ | New Zealand | Regular route (South-East Ridge) |
hike
|
*
|
11/09/07
|
Lucie climbed this peak when she hiked the Tongariro Crossing by "herself" - just along with another 200 people. |
Hike | Ngauruhoe, Tongariro N.P., NZ | New Zealand | Regular route (from Mangatepopo saddle) |
3rd
class, 30° snow
|
**
|
11/08/07
|
Non-technical but tedious hike on scoria slope leads to the summit. Classical volcano cone. |
Rock | Whanganui Bay, Lake Taupo, NZ | New Zealand | Various routes on Wekenui (aka Main Wall) |
Trad
cragging (17 to 22)
|
***
|
11/02/07
|
Good mix of crack and face climbing by the lake on a Maori reserve. |
Rock | Kawakawa Bay, Lake Taupo, NZ | New Zealand | Crack Wall & The Point |
Trad
cragging (17 to 19)
|
**
|
10/30/07
|
Good crack climbing. The lake setting at the point is pretty spectacular too (as is the via-ferrata-style approach). |
Rock | Kinloch, Lake Taupo, NZ | New Zealand | K1 Wall |
Sport
cragging
|
-
|
10/29/07
|
Something to do on an afternoon by the lake. |
Rock | Waipapa, North Island, NZ | New Zealand | Main Wall |
Trad
cragging (17 to 19)
|
**
|
10/26/07
|
Small crag but some of the best trad climbing we found in NZ. |
Rock | Froggatt Edge, Wharepapa South, North Island, NZ | New Zealand | Main Wall |
Sport
cragging (14 to 19)
|
**
|
10/24/07
and 10/25/07
|
Pleasant sport climbing in a very pastoral setting. |
Rock | Tieton River | West Coast | Wildcat Wall |
Trad
cragging (up to 10a)
|
***
|
09/09/07
|
Another good crag at Tieton River. Did not get to do the super classic Wildcat Crack. Hopefully, we'll be back. |
Rock | Tieton River, WA | West Coast | Ride the Lightning |
5.9, 7p, PG
|
NR
|
09/07/07
|
Really bad rock on the upper pitches. Not recommended. Just do the first two pitches if you really must! |
Rock | Goat Wall, Mazama, WA | North Cascades | Restless Natives |
5.11c
(or 10d/A0), 10p
|
***
|
09/01/07
|
Another good long clip-up on the Goat Wall near Mazama. Better route than Sisyphus in our opinion. |
Snow & Ice | Eldorado Peak | North Cascades | East Ridge |
Grade
II, glacier travel, up to 35° snow
|
***
|
08/26/07 to 08/28/07 |
A consolation prize after abandoning our original objective to climb Early Morning Spire (for reasons of bad strategy). Great scenic route nonetheless. |
Alpine Rock | Roan Wall, Darrington area | North Cascades | Center Stage (didn't finish last pitch) |
5.11a,
10p
|
***
|
08/22/07
to 08/24/07
|
Good slab route tucked away in a beautiful alpine cirque near Darrington. |
Rock | Lower Town Wall, Index, WA | North Cascades | Princely Ambitions, Sagittarius & Roger's Corner |
up
to 10a
|
***
|
08/16/07
|
Just about the best rock you'll find anywhere, but the place feels dark and oppressive (not to mention wet...). |
Apine Rock | Burgundy Spire, WA Pass, WA | North Cascades | Paisano Pinnacle & North Face |
Grade
IV, 5.9, 12p
|
**
|
08/13/07
|
A nice way to climb Burgundy. The regular North Face route alone is not really worth it in our opinion. |
Apine Rock | South Early Winter Spire, WA Pass, WA | North Cascades | Southwest Buttress |
Grade III, 5.8, 8p (5.10b var.) |
***
|
08/09/07
|
A good day on SEWS. Three of the pitches are excellent. Easy descent. |
Apine Rock | Inspiration Peak , Southern Pickets, WA | North Cascades | East Ridge |
Grade
IV, 5.10, ~11p
|
***
|
07/30/07
to 08/02/07
|
Full-on alpine adventure in one of the most remote and scenic ranges in the Cascades. Some scary loose rock and an ugly rap descent... |
Apine Rock | Chianti Spire, WA Pass, WA | North Cascades | Rebel Yell |
Grade
III, 5.10, 7p
|
*****
|
07/27/07
|
Great climbing on a scenic spire. Terrific rock. |
Apine Rock | Juno Tower (Vasiliki Ridge), WA Pass, WA | North Cascades | Clean Break |
Grade IV+, 5.10c, ~17p |
****
|
07/25/07
|
A very good alpine climb. The 10c pitch is beauuutiful! A long ridge route on good rock and an easy descent. |
Rock |
Goat
Wall, Mazama, WA
|
North Cascades |
5.11a,
10p
|
**
|
07/21/07
|
A good clip-up. The rock is not as clean as on "Prime Rib", except for the crux pitches. | |
Rock |
Goat
Wall, Mazama, WA
|
North Cascades |
5.9,
11p
|
***
|
07/19/07
|
Good moderate clip-up. | |
Apine Rock | The Minuteman, WA Pass, WA | North Cascades | East Face |
Grade
III, 5.10a, 7p
|
**
|
07/16/07
|
Two short pitches of great rock climbing, but a lot of "unpleasantness" getting to and back down from it. |
Apine Rock | Lexington Tower, WA Pass, WA | North Cascades | East Face |
Grade
III, 5.9, 9p
|
***
|
07/14/07
|
Good climbing but deteriorating rock in the upper pitches. |
Apine Rock | North Early Winter Spire, WA Pass, WA | North Cascades |
Northwest Corner (TR from 2003-2004 bus trip) |
Grade
III, 5.9, 6p
|
****
|
07/11/07
|
One of the cleanest routes at WA Pass. |
Apine Rock | North Twin Sister, WA | North Cascades | West Ridge |
3rd
and 4th class rock, 45° snow
|
**
|
07/08/07
|
The main attraction is the variety: mountain bike approach, ridge scramble, snow descent. |
Snow & Ice | Mt Shuksan, WA | North Cascades | Sulphide Glacier |
glacier
travel, up to 45° snow
|
****
|
07/03/07
to 07/05/07
|
A great ski-mountaineering trip! |
Snow & Ice |
Ruth
Mountain, WA
|
North Cascades |
30°
snow
|
***
|
06/26/07
|
Do it for the incredible views of Shuksan! | |
Snow & Ice |
Silver
Star Mountain, WA Pass, WA
|
North Cascades |
glacier,
30° snow, 4th class rock
|
****
|
06/22/07
|
A fun, non-technical climb with great views. | |
Apine Rock |
East
Wilmans Spire, Monte Cristo, WA
|
North Cascades |
45°
snow and 5.4
|
***
|
06/19/07
|
Striking spire in a beautiful setting; very little technical rock though. | |
Rock |
Darrington,
WA
|
North Cascades |
5.9,
5p and 5.10b, 4p
|
***
|
06/12/07
|
Two good routes on the smaller west buttress at 3 O'Clock Rock. | |
Rock |
Tieton
River, WA
|
West Coast |
Various
(trad)
|
wide
range
|
****
|
06/02/07
to 06/10/07
|
Excellent 1 to 2 pitch climbs on basalt columns. Best cragging in WA? |
Rock | West Coast |
Various
(trad)
|
wide
range
|
***
|
05/23/07
to 05/30/07
|
Good trad lines on excellent and sunny granite just outside Salt Lake City. Climbs are geographically scattered though. | |
A bit of everything | All over... |
Mostly
great!
|
Before
this trip...
|
For climbs we did during our 2003-2004 bus trip, click here. For a summary of climbs done prior to our 2003-2004 bus trip, click here. |